Swiss cheese plants (Monstera deliciosa) are grown for their lush, glossy leaves. They add a contemporary, jungly feel to a room and are good air purifiers.
The leaves are heart-shaped when young, then become perforated (or Swiss cheese-like) as they mature. This process is known as ‘fenestration’ and it’s thought that plants do this in the wild to let as much light as possible through to the lower leaves.
Cheese plants are actually vines – they’re native to South America, where they grow up trees, clinging on with their roots. The Latin name, Monstera deliciosa, means ‘delicious monster’. Monster refers to its size – in the wild they can reach 20m high and wide. Even in the average home, cheese plants grow fast and need plenty of room – they can reach at least 2m high and 2.5m wide. In time they will need to grow up a moss pole or stick for support.
Swiss cheese plants are easy house plants to care for and are generally pest- and disease-free. They can live for years in the right conditions.
How to care for monstera
Watering (how to and how much)
Monstera are very forgiving when it comes to watering. They tolerate even the most neglectful of plant owners, so it’s a great plant for those who are new to growing house plants or are away from the home frequently. In terms of the amount of water to give your plant, simply pour lukewarm water equally around its soil until it drains from the drainage hole below. This will give the plant a thorough soak and will also help wash out any excess nutrient salts leftover from previous feeding. You can never cause root rot (via over–watering) with the amount of water – it’s always the frequency in which you do so. Monstera will grow best when the soil is allowed to mostly dry out in between waters before another soaking. If the compost still looks or feels wet, leave it for another few days.
Lukewarm water is best as cold soil conditions may slow growth after a while. Tap water is generally considered fine for plants if you can drink it yourself. For those who are living in hard water areas or worried about chlorine, you can use an aquatic water conditioner to remove hard metals and chlorine. They are generally very cheap and will make up to 200,000 litres per bottle when mixed with water.
Light
[image id=”221099″ size=”landscape_thumbnail” title=”Wiping dust of monstera leaves. Jason Ingram” alt=”Wiping dust of monstera leaves. Jason Ingram” classes=””] Wiping dust of monstera leaves. Jason Ingram
When a germinating seed, Monstera deliciosa are one of the only species that will grow towards the darkness (instead of the light). Scientists believe this is mostly because they’re naturally a climber, so seedlings will be drawn to darker areas dimmed by a tree’s canopy to climb up and reach the light quicker.
This is important for us as it shows Monstera can survive in almost all light levels found in houses. Of course, the darker the location, the slower the growth rates. Windowsills that offer sunlight in the early morning or late evening (east or west facing) will provide the quickest growth. You can also opt to have this plant up to 3m away from a window, but ensure the plant isn’t directly behind furniture that blocks the light from hitting its leaves. Further, Monstera may grow quicker upstairs the temperature and light exposure is slightly higher than ground floors, too.
In essence, most locations should be fine for your new plant. Ensure it doesn’t receive the harsh midday sun during the summer months and that temperatures between 12℃ – 30℃ is best for plant happiness.
Over time, dust will accumulate on the leaves of your monstera. Wipe these off using a damp cloth, to maximise light reaching the leaves and improve the appearance of your plant.
Soil
Although a generic, peat-free ‘house plant’ labelled potting mix will be suffice for this plant, we recommend using a specific ‘monstera’ labelled mix instead. The latter will provide a generous amount of bark, perlite and worm castings that will enhance root health, which helps overall leaf health and growth rates.
In terms of how frequently to repot your Monstera, we recommend every year for small plants (in pots smaller than 12cm), and every two to three years in pots larger than this. Always use the next sized pot that also has drainage holes. Generally, they will do better with plastic pots over terracotta or ceramic (as the containers can become cold when the soil is wet), so try reusing old pots if you have these left over from previous repottings.
Fertilisers
A general ‘house plant’ labelled fertiliser is perfect for optimal health when following the manufacturer’s guidelines on usage frequency.
Temperature and humidity
Room temperatures comfortable for humans will also be fine for cheese plants (within 12℃ – 30℃). Typical humidity levels in our homes is also fine, so they won’t need a humidifier or frequent misting to grow well. Just ensure the plant hasn’t been placed within 1.5m of an operating radiator to avoid heat glare.
Pruning
While using a clean pair of scissors or secateurs, prune off any leaves that have yellowed/browned around 2.5cm (1in) from the main stem. The long black roots are known as aerial roots, which is what helps Monstera attach themselves to trees in the wild. Some indoor gardeners opt to prune them fully off, whereas others leave them on. We recommend keeping them as there isn’t much information yet on whether or not it affects the overall health of the plant.
We recommend pruning the plant’s stem back by a third every three years to keep the plant looking bushy.
Staking
Monstera will eventually need support in order to grow more upright. Those that are left to grow on their own devices will end up growing along the floor towards the window. Use either a bamboo cane, twining trellis, or a ‘moss pole’ (found at most garden centres or online) which is made from dried coconuts.
How to repot a monstera
A good sign to transplant it into a bigger container is when four (or more) roots grow out of its pot. Remember to use either a ‘monstera’ or ‘house plant’ labelled potting mix and a pot that’s only a few centimetres wider than its current one. Generally speaking, we recommend repotting your monstera every two years.
- Water the plant between 3–12 hours before the repot to reduce transplant shock.
- Remove the plant from its pot and scan the outer edge of the rootball (don’t pull soil off healthy roots or disturb them too much).
- If the root system is healthy (cream coloured roots that are plump), move on to step 4. If, however, there are any roots that are brown, mushy and/or flat, remove them using clean scissors. Work your way around the rootball slowly to hunt any dead roots. If more than half has become rotten, transplant into a smaller pot (than the original) as a damaged rootball will prefer being snug in a pot. If all of the roots have rotten (and the plant looks unwell), we recommend taking stem cuttings to essentially ‘restart’ the root system by placing them in water for now.
- Pour 4cm (2in) of fresh soil in the empty new pot. Place the rootball top, before filling any remaining gaps with more soil.
- Drop the pot around 5cm from the ground to consolidate the soil twice. Never push the soil down with your fingers to aid plant balance as this can negatively affect the airflow. Finally, water the plant the following day.
Note: if your monstera begins to wilt/curl a few days after being repotted, this means the rootball was likely disturbed too much during the repot. While the soil is moist, refrain from watering the plant further as this shock can quickly develop into root rot. Instead, only rehydrate the potting mix once the top quarter feels dry and ensure the plant is kept in a warm, bright windowsill with no direct sunlight. It should bounce back within a few weeks, but if it progress further after this period, you may have to take stem cuttings to keep the plant alive.
How to propagate a monstera
[image id=”103271″ size=”landscape_thumbnail” title=”Propagating Swiss cheese plant. Sarah Cuttle” alt=”Propagating Swiss cheese plant. Sarah Cuttle” classes=””] Propagating Swiss cheese plant. Sarah Cuttle
Perhaps one of the easily propagated plants, a monstera cutting will begin to root within a few weeks of being snipped.
Select a healthy monstera stem that has a node, which is a small bump or nub on the stem where leaves or aerial roots grow. Make sure your cutting has at least one node for successful rooting, and two leaves. Then, using a clean pair of pruning shears, cut off the top 12–18cm of the stem.
Rooting in water
- Sit the cutting in a glass of water, ensuring the stem is submerged in the water, but the leaves are not.
- Place the cutting in a bright, sunless windowsill and change the water every few days to keep it fresh. Lukewarm water is best to avoid shocking the plant with overly cold water from the tap.
- Be patient for roots to develop, which may take up to three weeks. Once the first root is 10cm in length, you may place either back into the mother plant’s soil, or a fresh 12cm pot with either a peat-free ‘monstera’ or ‘house plant’ labelled potting mix. Follow the watering tips mentioned at the start of this article.
Rooting in soil
- Fill the bottom quarter of a 12cm pot (that has drainage holes).
- With one hand, rest the cutting on top of the soil, while pouring the rest of the soil into the pot to fill any gaps. The best potting mix is either a peat-free, ‘monstera’ or a ‘houseplant’ labelled potting mix. Pat the side of the pot in various spots to consolidate the soil into place.
- Place the cutting in a bright, sunless windowsill while it roots. Keep the soil moist, ensuring only the top quarter dries out in between watering. Start feeding your monstera around six weeks after the initial repotting.
- From week seven, treat your cutting like a mature specimen, using the tips written in this article.
Common issues (how to diagnose problems)
[image id=”103272″ size=”landscape_thumbnail” title=”Scale insect on Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)” alt=”Scale insect on Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa). Sarah Cuttle” classes=””] Scale insect on Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)
Pests: thrips are very common with monstera, appearing mostly in the spring and summer months. They’ll come through open windows and via newly bought plants. Eradication is needed immediately due to the speed in which they can damage the plant. Mealybugs are less common, but can still weaken a monstera over a period of a year. Look out for white cotton–like substances forming in the crevices of the plant. Fungus gnats are harmless to a monstera but will infest overly wet soils that haven’t dried out in between waters.
Root rot: yellowing older leaves are very common and should not cause concern if it’s the odd leaf dropping off. If, however, the plant hasn’t grown in over six months and the older leaves are continuing to decline, we recommend repotting to have a scan of its roots. If the roots are cream–coloured and plump, repot into the next sized pot and ensure the plant is kept closer to a window. For rootballs that are rotten, ensure any brown/mushy roots are pruned off with a clean pair of scissors, along with the adjacent soil. Work around the rootball, leaving any healthy roots on the plant. Repot the plant back into the same pot with a fresh batch of ‘monstera’ or ‘houseplant’ compost.
Brown spots or patches (with yellow halos) could be a sign of a few different issues:
- Root rot (check the roots and repot if necessary)
- Nutrient deficiency (fertilise your the plant every third watering)
- Pests (most notably thrips – check the plant over and act accordingly as per the advice above)
- Poor compost (repot into new compost if you haven’t done so recently)
Sun scorch will also cause leaves to brown, but the affected areas on the leaf will be a crispy thin brown that crunch easily.
Black leaves are most likely exposure to colder temperatures of below 12℃ (54℉). Remove the affected leaves, place in the warmest room and allow the soil to dry out in between waters. Keep an eye on the stem – if it becomes brown and mushy, you must take stem cuttings to save plant while discarding the rootball.
A leggy monstera (where there is lots of foliage on top of the stem, but accompanied by a bare base where no leaves are present). This is very common and is just a byproduct of maturity. Try taking stem cuttings to root in water (before replanting back into the mother plant’s pot), or planting devil’s ivy (pothos) cuttings into the pot. This will ‘bush out’ the base (above the soil) to make a fuller plant.
Toxicity
Unfortunately, this plant is classified as poisonous when ingested by humans and pets.
Advice on buying golden pothos
- Swiss cheese plants are tolerant of low light levels but do better in bright, but indirect light
- If you’re buying a monstera to climb, you’ll need a support, such as a moss or coir pole
- You can often find monstera in garden centres, but for the best selection, buy at a specialist house plant retailer or online
- Ensure the plant is healthy, with healthy leaves and leaf-tips, and no signs of pests
Where to buy Swiss cheese plant
Varieties to grow
[image id=”221100″ size=”landscape_thumbnail” title=”Monstera ‘Thai Constellation’ Jason Ingram” alt=”Monstera ‘Thai Constellation’ Jason Ingram” classes=””] Monstera ‘Thai Constellation’ Jason Ingram
Monstera deliciosa – this is the traditional Swiss cheese plant, which has been popular since the 1970s, producing leaves up to 1m in width. Height x Spread: 3m x 2m
- Buy Monstera deliciosa from Thompson & Morgan, Patch Plants, Crocus
Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’ – a beautiful variety of Monstera deliciosa that can a little tricky to produce reliable variegations. Ensure it relieves partial sunlight and regular feeds. H x S: 3/5m x 1.5m
- Buy Monstera deliciosa ‘Albo Variegata’ from Rebel Plants, House of Kojo, Gardening Express
Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ – an excellent variegated cultivar of Monstera deliciosa, with reliable variegations. H x S: 3m x 2m
- Buy Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ from Dobies, Thompson & Morgan, Bloombox Club
Monstera deliciosa ‘Mint’ – this variety is harder to find in garden centres, but is quite common online as cuttings. Ensure the plant is kept in a bright location with either morning or evening sunlight. H x S: 3m x 2m
- Buy Monstera deliciosa ‘Mint’ from Plants for all Seasons
Monstera deliciosa ‘Yellow Marilyn’ – rarely available, producing large golden variegated leaves. H x S: 2.5m x 1.5m
- Buy Monstera deliciosa ‘Yellow Marilyn’ from Etsy
Frequently asked questions
Can you over–water a monstera? This is slightly harder to do than other house plants because of the sporadic growth habits of its root system, but is still possible. Ensure the plant is grown in a pot with drainage holes and ensure the top third of the soil dries out in between waters. Monsteras tolerate most light levels in a house, as long as it’s within 3m of a window.
What are these small yellow bugs on my monstera’s leaves? These are most likely thrips, which must be dealt with immediately as they can cause lots of damage and potentially even kill your monstera.
Will my yellowed monstera leaf turn green again? No, unfortunately any leaves that have turned either yellow or brown will remain that colour. If it’s just the odd yellowed leaf is dying, this is nothing to worry about and is just a sign of maturity.
How often should I repot my monstera? We recommend every two years on average, with smaller plants (in pots smaller than 12cm) being transplanted yearly until they’re in a 13cm pot or larger. Large monsteras in containers wider than 30cm can be repotted every three years.
Can monstera grow in conservatories? Yes, as long as the temperature is above 12℃ (54℉) throughout the year, and the sun exposure isn’t too harsh. If the sun (or room temperature) can theoretically melt a chocolate bar, we recommend keeping it in another room that’s not as hot.
Can I plant monstera with other plants in the same pot? Absolutely. Just ensure the other plants are also suited to its soil needs. Generally speaking, tropical plants like peace lilies, palms, dracaena, ficus and Devil’s ivy are fine to be planted with monstera. Avoid interplanting cacti, succulents, orchids and carnivorous plants, which have very different compost requirements.
Do monstera (Swiss cheese plants) like climb up a moss pole or hang down? They are fine to grow downwards, but they’ll generally grow better when supported by a moss pole. Monstera left to grow on its own devices (ie. without a moss pole) will grow along the floor towards a light source, which could present a trip hazard.
* This article was originally published here
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